
The Ford Ranger is available from $36,880 to $90,440 for the 2025 Ute across a range of models.
Big, buff and ready for work, Ford's Thai-built Ranger stormed the sales charts when first released in 2015. Available in just about every conceivable configuration, including a cab chassis or pick-up body style with two or four doors - and with two- or four-wheel drive and a choice of petrol or diesel engines - Ford's workhorse proved popular for its impressive payload capabilities and strong towing capacity. Priced from from $36,880 for the base Ranger XL 2.0 HI-Rider (4X2) all the way to $90,440 for the top of the range Ranger Raptor 3.0 (4X4), the Ford Ranger is pitched as a genuine alternative to the ubiquitous Toyota HiLux. Think building site workhorse, with a sprinkling of good ol' American style.

Year | Price From | Price To |
---|---|---|
2025 | $36,880 | $90,440 |
2024 | $33,660 | $103,950 |
2023 | $32,890 | $109,780 |
2022 | $25,080 | $94,710 |
2021 | $24,310 | $92,180 |
2020 | $22,770 | $81,950 |
2019 | $20,460 | $78,430 |
2018 | $18,150 | $72,160 |
2017 | $18,810 | $53,900 |
2016 | $16,940 | $49,940 |
2015 | $10,560 | $47,960 |
2014 | $10,230 | $39,160 |
2013 | $9,240 | $35,860 |
2012 | $8,690 | $34,650 |
2011 | $7,810 | $31,240 |
2010 | $7,040 | $26,510 |
2009 | $6,490 | $25,960 |
2008 | $6,050 | $18,480 |
2007 | $4,730 | $17,820 |
Ford Ranger FAQs
Check out real-world situations relating to the Ford Ranger here, particularly what our experts have to say about them.
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Rattle in the engine bay of a 2019 Ford Ranger XLT ute
This could be caused by something inside the engine bay rattling or vibrating, but could also be linked to the exhaust system or its heat-shielding doing the same thing. When you hit the accelerator up a hill, the engine and driveline (and exhaust) are suddenly put under a lot of stress which can be passed along any mechanical link or fixture, making things flex or vibrate that don’t normally do so when they aren’t subjected to the same stresses and loads.
When the engine is cold, have a feel around the engine bay to find anything loose or poorly mounted that could contribute to such vibrations. It could be as simple as a poorly located clamp of a loose piece of trunking or internal panelling vibrating against another part. Often these noises will be conveyed into the cabin via the fresh air vents, making them sound even louder.
Just be sure not to confuse a rattle with the normal cacophony of noises a modern turbo-diesel produces as part of operating under load.
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Does the Ford Ranger have a timing belt or chain?
I can see why the internet cohort might be confused by this question (and why your mate at the pub may or may not know what he’s talking about) because it’s a bit of a weird one. For reasons of friction reduction (efficiency) and reliability, the camshafts in the Ford Bi-turbo are driven by a rubber toothed belt. But – and here’s the strange bit – the belt is partially submerged in the oil in the engine’s sump, so it’s a 'wet' timing belt. While the vast majority of other rubber, toothed timing belts run in a 'dry' environment.
Ford reckons this gives the engine the low noise of a conventional rubber timing belt, combined with the low friction running of a conventional `wet’ timing chain. But the high-strength cords and the oil-resistant rubber the belt is made from, says Ford, also mean that it should last a lot longer than a conventional timing belt. While conventional belts should be changed between 80,000 and 120,000km (roughly speaking) the Ford belt is said to be good for 230,000km.
For the record, the Bi-turbo’s oil pump is driven by a second belt of the same construction.
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My 2011 Ford Ranger has noisy engine tappets
Noisy tappets (also known as hydraulic lifters) are relatively common on engines that have done their fair share of work. By using oil pressure generated from the engine’s oil pump, the hydraulic lifter can adjust to maintain the perfect gap between itself and the engine’s intake and exhaust valves. This improves efficiency and reduces engine wear, so it’s an important job.
Over time, the lifters may become a bit lazy (or weak) and may not be able to maintain that correct gap. At which point the extra clearance causes the tapping sound we associate with worn lifters. Replacement is the solution, and best practice says replace them all at once on the basis that if one lifter is already weak, the rest won’t be too clever either.
However, there’s one thing you can try before that, and that is to give the engine an oil change with a high-detergent (as most diesel engine oils are) content oil and a clean filter. Sometimes, fresh oil will clear out a small piece of grit or rubbish that is blocking the oil flow to a lifter and restore it to full health.
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