

Year | Price From | Price To |
---|---|---|
2025 | $59,990 | $69,990 |
2024 | N/A | N/A |
2023 | N/A | N/A |
2022 | N/A | N/A |
2021 | N/A | N/A |
2020 | N/A | N/A |
2019 | N/A | N/A |
2018 | N/A | N/A |
2017 | $34,980 | $47,410 |
2016 | $31,570 | $43,230 |
2015 | N/A | N/A |
2014 | $11,110 | $31,350 |
2013 | $10,120 | $27,830 |
2012 | $8,250 | $25,960 |
2011 | $7,920 | $25,300 |
2010 | $6,380 | $24,200 |
2009 | $6,160 | $22,880 |
2008 | $5,610 | $21,890 |
2007 | $5,060 | $19,690 |
2006 | $4,510 | $19,250 |
2005 | $3,190 | $16,940 |
2004 | $2,860 | $16,500 |
2003 | $2,860 | $13,750 |
2002 | $2,860 | $13,420 |
2001 | $2,860 | $13,420 |
2000 | $3,190 | $12,870 |
1999 | $3,190 | $12,870 |
1998 | $3,190 | $9,020 |
1997 | $3,190 | $9,020 |
1996 | $3,080 | $10,780 |
1995 | $7,700 | $10,780 |
1994 | $7,700 | $10,780 |
1981 | $2,640 | $4,070 |
1980 | N/A | N/A |
1979 | N/A | N/A |
1978 | N/A | N/A |
1977 | N/A | N/A |
1976 | N/A | N/A |
1975 | N/A | N/A |
1974 | N/A | N/A |
1973 | N/A | N/A |
Ford Transit FAQs
Check out real-world situations relating to the Ford Transit here, particularly what our experts have to say about them.
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Can I install a Toyota three-litre diesel in a Ford Transit?
Probably not, and since this would be a classic back-yard conversion, we don't know of any documented proof or a set of instructions for how to do it.
The bigger question, of course, is why you'd want to try to perform such a transplant. It might be different if the Transit itself was not available with a diesel engine option, but it has been for many years. So why try to adapt a Toyota engine? Buy a diesel Transit and save yourself a lifetime of hassles.
Seriously, aside from the big issues of making a foreign engine physically fit in a van's compromised engine bay, you'd also have the detail problems of running cables and electrics. Then there's the question of making the engine talk to the rest of the car in an electronic sense, which involves everything from the engine-control computer to making sure the dashboard functions properly. And do you use the Transit gearbox, or instal the whole Toyota driveline? Even then, fi you manage to achieve all this, you'd have to convince the registration authorities that the thing was fit to drive on the road.
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What van should I get to build a camper van?
Mitsubishi’s L300 Express was available as a four-wheel-drive model way back in the 1980s (83 to 86) and was a very popular van to convert for camping thanks to that all-wheel-drive grip that allowed it to tackle rough roads with little problem. After 1986, a few of the later model Express 4WD vans (often badged Delica) made it into Australia as private imports, and there are a few of them around now to choose from.
The requirement to be able to stand up inside the vehicle will limit your choices a little, but popular vans like the Toyota HiAce, Ford Transit and Mercedes-Benz Vito were available in a high-roof configuration. Even though they lacked all-wheel-drive, generally rugged construction means they should cope with dirt roads pretty well. They just won’t have the grip for off-road work.
As with any second-hand commercial vehicle, try to find out what it did in its previous life. A van that has been used for hard labour might well be worn out. And don’t forget, nobody bought these things new for anything other than a working life.
If, on the other hand, you’re shipping for a brand-new van, there are plenty of options from Ford, Mercedes, Peugeot, Fiat, Toyota and more. The vast majority of them use a turbo-diesel engine so will be quite economical and many also offer an automatic transmission for ease of driving. Choose the one that suits your intended layout best in terms of side and rear doors and the ability to climb from the front seat into the van area without leaving the vehicle (some have cargo barriers that will prevent this).
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Why isn't the turbo in my 2018 Ford Transit working?
You’re on the right track, Don, with your guess that the whistling noise has something to do with the turbocharger’s bearing. But unfortunately, if you’re right and it’s the turbo bearing that’s making the whistling noise (and I agree with your theory) then a new or rebuilt turbocharger is the only real fix. Turbos have a hard life, dealing with extremes of temperature as well as the requirement to accelerate from almost nothing to anything up to 250,000rpm. The bearings that allow for this are sealed units and – generally – are not serviceable.
But you might be lucky: A lack of turbo boost can be caused by many things, so check the basics like a loose boost pipe before you start tearing the engine apart.
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