Holden Astra Problems

Having a bolt snap off while you’re undoing it is a royal pain and can bring take the car off the road if it’s a critical fastener. You’re probably best off visiting a mechanical engineering shop (or good workshop) who will have the tools necessary to remove the broken chunk of bolt still lodged in the car.

Techniques vary according to how much bolt is still showing, access to it and even what it’s made from. In some cases, the engineer will use what’s called a bolt-extractor kit which screws into the broken bolt and extracts it without damaging the existing threads. If you’re lucky there will still be enough of the broken bolt exposed to allow the use of vice-grips to remove it. Sometimes a small section of new metal can be welded to the broken stud or bolt to give purchase and in extreme cases there’s even a process called spark eroding which is more expensive but can really save the day. The last resort is usually drilling the broken bolt out as this can destroy the threads in the part, requiring even more work to ultimately replace the fastener. In each case, penetrating fluid and/or the application of heat will be the first step to try to free or loosen the broken fastener before trying to extract it.

Rather than an internal transmission problem, this is probably a simple case of loose fittings where the selector meets the gearbox or even where the selector pivots inside the centre-console. The moving parts inside this mechanism can wear over time and lead to sloppiness in the shift lever itself. You can remove the centre-console panels and see for yourself if there’s excess play or movement in the connections. The fix might be new bushes or guides, but it shouldn’t be a huge job.

The first thing to do is find the owner’s manual and any paperwork that came with the car when it was brand new. Many dealerships wrote the security code on a business card that was slipped into the owner’s folder, others sometimes write the code somewhere on one of the manual’s pages. Either of which kind of defeats the purpose of a secret code, but it was common practice.

If that doesn’t pay off, you may have to remove the radio from the dashboard, record the unit’s serial number and contact either Holden or the stereo’s manufacturer (I think Blaupunkt, in this case) to see if it has records of what security code went with what radio.

Finally, there’s another long-shot that might pay off. Your car has an individual VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) which should be recorded on a metal plate at the edge of the windscreen, under the glass. The last four digits of this VIN are often the security code for the radio fitted at the factory. It doesn’t work on every make and model, but it’s free and worth a shot.

Even though the Holden brand isn't selling new cars any longer, the brand still exists to service Holdens already on the road in Australia. Spare parts for an Astra are no problem to get hold of, either through a Holden service centre or from any number of suppliers, many of whom have websites you can look up.

That said, I wouldn't be too picky about having a 2018 car serviced by Holden, as any good workshop should be able to tackle any job on this relatively conventional car. But, if you do wish to use a Holden service centre, there are nine listed in the Perth area, so finding one shouldn't be a problem.

This shouldn't be too difficult, as the 2003 Astra was only available with a petrol engine. If your car was a diesel-powered car (available in the next generation of Astra) the situation could be much more complicated. As it is, however, you should really only need to add fresh fuel to the tank, switch on the ignition for a few seconds to allow the fuel pump to prime the engine and then hit the starter. Don't crank the engine for long periods if it's a bit slow to start a this will drain the battery and potentially overheat the starter motor. Instead, try starting the engine in bursts of a few seconds at a time with a little time between to let things cool down.

Sometimes, however, the fuel pump won't appreciate being allowed to run dry and this can cause internal damage to the pump sufficient for it to need replacement. Generally, though, if you can hear the pump buzzing with the ignition on, the pump is working. In some extreme cases, the pump may not be able to prime the engine and the solution then is to spray a little starter fluid down the intake system to start the engine and hopefully allow the pump to catch up. But be warned, this is a dangerous process and should only be tried by somebody who knows what they're doing. It also involves undoing some of the trunking or piping to gain access to the engine's intake.

The other potential hazard with running a car dry of fuel is that you'll drag all the silt, rust and dirt that once sat harmlessly in the bottom of the tank through the engine and into the fuel system. So you would be well advised to change the fuel filters and check that no rubbish has entered the system.

Holden Astras of this vintage have been known to suffer false alarms from the security system, and it seems as though a re-flash or replacement of the ECU (on-board computer) is the ultimate fix. In many other cases, false alarms are the result of faulty switches and sensors, but the Astra’s track record suggests the computer will be the culprit. At which point you have a decision to make which may involve disabling the alarm system altogether (make sure you advise your insurance company if you go down this road).

This model Astra was also infamous for a radio that could turn itself on (independent of the ignition system) and flatten the battery.

There are two possibilities here and it will all depend on whether your car is a 2005 model (that was first sold in 2006) or a post-facelift model and also whether it’s a TS Astra or an AH model Astra. If it’s the earlier car, then you might be in luck. The process involves taking the new key, placing it in the ignition and turning the ignition on (without starting the engine). Then, when all the dashboard lights are lit up, you press one of the remote buttons on the key. And that’s about it. You should hear the car lock and then unlock itself to let you know the process is complete and you’re good to go.

For post-2005 models, however, things are not so simple. In this case, you need to either visit a locksmith or a workshop that has the Holden diagnostic gear, as the new key needs to be coded to the car via the diagnostic port. That said, I’d give the first method a try before spending money at a workshop. Who knows, you might just get lucky.

You’d expect any noise from under a car’s bonnet to be caused by the engine, but if this noise occurs before you’ve started the engine, you’re on to a real mystery. Perhaps the noise can be heard as you crank the engine but before it actually fires? If that’s the case, the clunk or knock could be coming from the starter motor. Or perhaps the action of the starter motor is causing the engine to rock back and forth on worn engine mounts and allowing the engine to hit on the cross-member or some other component under the bonnet. Perhaps it’s a loose exhaust system that’s banging on something as you crank the engine. Once the engine fires and is running, the frequency of its vibrations changes and the clunk goes away.

But I’m afraid that without more information, this one remains a mystery to us.

The good news is that this probably isn’t an actual gearbox problem, but rather one with the mechanical linkages that select each gear or perhaps even the gear selector itself. If you can remove the centre console, you might be able to locate the offending (loose) fastener that is allowing the gear lever to flop about and not find its proper place.

If, however, you mean that the vehicle doesn’t want to select Drive properly first thing in the morning and either won’t move or moves very slowly when you accelerate, then you could well be looking at a worn transmission. That said, the same problem can be caused by a transmission that is simply low on fluid, and a top up will put things right. So that’s the first step: Check the owner’s manual for the correct fluid-checking process and try that. If a top-up doesn’t fix it, it’s off to a mechanic. But beware – driving the car in that state could be doing extra damage to the transmission.

The first response of most mechanics on this would be that you have a head gasket leak in the engine. Coolant in the oil and/or oil in the coolant are classic symptoms of this. It happens because the faulty head gasket allows the two fluids to mix but, depending on exactly where the gasket fails, you don’t necessary get both symptoms. A workshop can pressure test the engine’s cooling system and perform what’s called a TK test to show up any contaminants in the coolant that have found their way there via a blown head gasket.

But before you go tearing into the engine, check the service records to find out how old the coolant is. Coolant will discolour over time and kilometres and what you’re seeing as a `milky colour’ might simply be old coolant that has gone cloudy and needs changing.