Honda Problems

The default purchase for somebody looking for a mid-sized hybrid SUV is the Toyota RAV4 Hybrid. But if that’s too big, there’s the Toyota Yaris Cross Hybrid, C-HR Hybrid and even the Corolla Cross Hybrid which sounds like the marketplace is getting crowded but is really just a reflection of the appetite right now for cars like these. And that’s the catch; the waiting times for a brand-new example of some of these cars is out to many months and even years. So your plan to shop second-hand makes plenty of sense, but don’t expect any bargains in a market currently being dominated by lots of demand and less supply.

Beyond the Toyota brand (which has been doing hybrids longer than just about anybody else) there’s also the Mazda CX-30, Subaru XV Hybrid, Haval Jolion Hybrid, Kia Niro, Subaru Forester Hybrid, Nissan Qashqai e-Power, MG HS, Honda HR-V e and more. For something a bit bigger, try the Kia Sorento or Hyundai Santa Fe hybrids. There are others out there, too, that are probably bigger or more expensive than you need, but it's very much a growing scene in the Australian marketplace.

To be honest, those do very much sound like the normal characteristics of a CVT transmission. The CVT saves fuel by allowing the engine to work in its most efficient speed range more of the time. That’s why, when you hit the accelerator, the engine sounds like it’s flaring. Which, of course, it is, to get into that sweet spot where it makes more power from less fuel. Essentially, the engine takes off and the rest of the car catches up with it.

The on-board computer can also interpret a burst of acceleration as the driver wanting to press on. That’s why the car will sometimes hold higher engine revs, because it wants to be ready for the next burst. When you back off, the computer interprets that as the need for speed having passed and it drops back to cruising revs…just as you’ve noted.

The jerkiness is another thing some owners notice, others never do. It’s all to do with the way the torque converter is calibrated. If you have any doubts, you could ask for the transmission to be scanned at the next service to see if it’s all in good condition.

Either way, you should report your concerns to Honda now so that if anything goes wrong down the track, the problem will be listed as a pre-existing condition and will still be considered by the factory warranty.

The question of a Honda Accord timing belt or chain is not exactly a simple one to answer as there have been various permutations of the Accord theme sold in Australia over the years. In fact, even though they all bore Accord badges, the various Accord models have often been quite different from each other, including some very different models that sold alongside each other at the same time. So here’s how it pans out:

Very early Honda Accords sold here used toothed rubber timing belts, but those cars from 1977 through to the mid-90s are now pretty old, hard to find and don’t really make it to most people’s short-lists when shopping for a new second-hand car.

Fast forward to 1997, and we start to get into cars that might still have some broad appeal as second-hand buys. Of those, the 1997 to 2003 Accord used two engines, a 2.3-litre four-cylinder and a 3.0-litre V6. Both those engines used a toothed, rubber timing belt which needs to be changed at 100,000km intervals.

For 2003 to 2007 Accords, the engine choices remained a four-cylinder and a V6, but now the former was from Honda’s K Series of engines and featured a timing chain rather than a rubber belt. The V6 remained the same as the previous model. For 2008 to 2013 Accords, the news was similar with the four-cylinder carried over (with its timing chain) and the V6 enlarged to 3.5 litres but still from the same family of engines (and still with its rubber timing belt). In fact, that was to remain a theme for the whole of Accord production with the smaller engine using a timing chain and the V6 getting a rubber belt. Even the very last Accord, the current-model, uses a turbocharged four-cylinder engine with a timing chain, while the hybrid Accord uses an unconventional petrol engine, also with a timing chain.

If, however, we’re talking about the Accord Euro which was sold here right alongside the Accord between 2003 and 2015, the question is a bit simpler as only one engine was offered in that car; a 2.4-litre four-cylinder which used a timing chain (it was also from Honda’s K Series family).

Beyond that, the task of the timing chain or timing belt is exactly the same: They take drive from the engine’s crankshaft to the camshaft and, in the process, keep all the moving parts in harmony. Many car makers moved away from a timing chain to the rubber, toothed drive belt as a way of simplifying engine design and driving down the cost of each engine. The rubber timing belt is also quieter in its operation and is also less prone to stretching (as a timing chain can) so the camshaft (commonly referred to as the cam) stays in perfect synch with the rest of the engine’s rotating parts. The timing belt is a simpler design because it doesn’t need to be tensioned via oil pressure from the engine as many timing chain systems are.

The timing chain, meanwhile, is preferred by some manufacturers because it should last the lifetime of the engine and never need replacement. This isn’t always the case, however, and some engines designs from a variety of manufacturers suffer problems in this regard. But, in a properly maintained engine of sound design, the timing chain should never need attention, while the rubber timing belt generally requires periodic replacement.

The subject of a Honda Jazz timing belt or chain comes up pretty frequently, as would-be owners try to gauge how reliable these hard-working little engines are. For those who prefer solid, low-maintenance motoring, the news is good, because all three Australian-delivered generations of the Honda Jazz have used the company’s L series engines which feature a timing chain rather than a rubber timing belt.

The task of the timing chain or timing belt is exactly the same: They take drive from the engine’s crankshaft to the camshaft and, in the process, keep all the moving parts in harmony. Many car makers moved away from a timing chain to the rubber, toothed drive belt as a way of simplifying engine design and driving down the cost of each engine. The rubber timing belt is also quieter in its operation and is also less prone to stretching (as a timing chain can) so the camshaft (commonly referred to as the cam) stays in perfect synch with the rest of the engine’s rotating parts. The timing belt is a simpler design because it doesn’t need to be tensioned via oil pressure from the engine as many timing chain systems are.

The timing chain, meanwhile, is preferred by some manufacturers (and their customers) because it should last the lifetime of the engine and never need replacement. This isn’t always the case, however, and some engines designs from a variety of manufacturers suffer problems in this regard. But, in a properly maintained engine of sound design, the timing chain should never need attention, while the rubber timing belt generally requires periodic replacement, usually between 60,000 and 120,000km depending on the make and model.

Is the engine in your Honda CR-V timing belt or chain? It depends on when the car was made, but it’s crucial information. That’s particularly so for owners of the first-gen CRVs we saw in Australia. That vehicle had the B Series Honda engine which used a rubber timing belt. The good news is that this has proved a very reliable set-up, and Honda recommends the belt be changed only every 150,000km which is a huge replacement interval by industry standards. A full kit to replace the timing belt on this engine, including a new water pump, will cost around $300 for the parts

After that (from 2001 onwards) Honda fitted the K Series engine to CRVs, and this engine used a timing chain which should be good for the life of the engine. The R20A four-cylinder engine used from late 2012 also uses a timing chain, as does the turbo-diesel 2.2-litre engine from the same era. The current-model CR-V with its 1.5-litre turbocharged petrol engine (the L15B7) also uses a timing chain.

The task of the timing chain or timing belt is exactly the same: They take drive from the engine’s crankshaft to the camshaft and, in the process, keep all the moving parts in harmony. Many car makers moved away from a timing chain to the rubber, toothed drive belt as a way of simplifying engine design and driving down the cost of each engine. The rubber timing belt is also quieter in its operation and is also less prone to stretching (as a timing chain can) so the camshaft (commonly referred to as the cam) stays in perfect synch with the rest of the engine’s rotating parts. The rubber timing belt is a simpler design because it doesn’t need to be tensioned via oil pressure from the engine as many timing chain systems are.

The timing chain, meanwhile, is preferred by some manufacturers because it should last the lifetime of the engine and never need replacement. This isn’t always the case, however, and some engines designs from a variety of manufacturers suffer problems in this regard. But, in a properly maintained engine of sound design, the timing chain should never need attention, while the rubber timing belt generally requires periodic replacement.

The CVT you’re referring to is actually the car’s transmission rather than its engine. And since the engine is what drives the air-conditioning compressor, it’s the engine’s power and torque that determines whether the car still drives nicely with the air-conditioning switched on, not whether the transmission is a CVT or any other type.

But I think I know what you are referring to. And that is how well the car’s engine and its CVT transmission are matched. Sometimes, a transmission can gobble up a fair bit of horsepower and torque and that can take the edge off performance. Throw the switch on the air-conditioning and there’s even more load on the engine, making it feel even less perky. In that sense, I think the Corolla as the newer design would have a more efficient transmission and that could mean that it feels the load less than the older Honda might and, therefore, holds on to more of its original performance.

But the second thing you mentioned, that your car’s air-con doesn’t really keep up at temperatures over 30 degrees is more likely to be a problem with the air-con itself. You might find that a five-year-old car (such as your Honda is) is ready for the air-conditioning system to be serviced and perhaps even re-gassed, which might just return it to better health. For the record, Toyota’s have always had some of the best-performing air-conditioning systems in the business over the years, and I very much doubt that a 30-degree day would tax the air-con in a new Corolla one iota.

The engines in these Hondas are considered pretty solid and reliable performers. But as with any car now celebrating its 15^th birthday, things can go wrong that can affect performance. With that in mind it could be time to give the engine a comprehensive once-over and a full service. Having the car electronically interrogated would be a good idea, too, as any faults noted by the on-board computer will have been logged and could tell you a lot about that’s going on under the bonnet. Just because the car hasn’t illuminated a dashboard warning light, doesn’t mean that the computer hasn’t noticed something strange going on.

The problem is obviously an intermittent one (or the car would never run properly) and that really does point towards something electronic. That said, a good mechanic will also go back to first principles checking things like fuel delivery, ignition timing and even engine compression.

Any information you can gather when the problem occurs will help enormously, too. For instance, does the engine blow smoke or make any odd noises when it loses power? Does the car shudder or suddenly start using more fuel when the problem occurs? The more observations you can pass on to a mechanic the better idea he or she will have of where to start searching. Fundamentally, you could be looking at anything from a collapsed catalytic converter or muffler, a faulty fuel pump or injector, a damaged spark-plug lead or literally any one of about a thousand other things.

The best Honda CR-V engine oil will depend on which engine your car is fitted with. From 2007, Honda used a 2.4-litre four-cylinder and, even though the model was facelifted in 2012, the engine stayed the same. In that case, the oil you need is a quality (from a recognised brand) 5W40 either synthetic or semi-synthetic. From 2012 to 2017, the CR-V was also available with a two-litre petrol engine option, and that unit requires a 0W20 as the first choice but a 5W30 is also allowable for engines that size.

If your car is the later model, things get a bit more complicated as there were new engine options including a 2.2-litre turbo-diesel which needs a diesel-specific 0W30 synthetic oil. If you have the later 1.6-litre turbo-diesel replacement which arrived here from late 2015, the same 0W30 oil is appropriate, as is a 5W30 synthetic. These `light’ (low viscosity) oils are typical for high-tech engines such as the Honda’s with its variable valve timing.

Honda made continual changes to the CR-V range over the years, including some model and specification revisions for the 2016 model year, but none of these affected the range of engines (or Honda CR-V oil type) we’ve just discussed. Late model CR-Vs with a petrol engine require five litres (or slightly less) of oil, while the turbo-diesel models need 4.7 litres.

Just as there’s a correct Honda CRV oil, the correct Honda CR-V oil filter should also be fitted at the same time to avoid putting clean oil through an old, dirty filter. For the 2.4 petrol, the correct filter is a Ryco (or equivalent) Z411, as is the filter for the two-litre petrol. The 2.2-litre diesel requires an R2767P filter while the 1.6 diesel uses a Z690.

There are no mysterious trade secrets about how to change oil on a Honda CR-V, but you do need to know the basics. Changing oil and oil filter at home is a great DIY project and a good way to save some money and gain some satisfaction. The best advice is to obtain a workshop manual specific to your car and take it step by step. The manual will also include all the information and specifications you need to tackle other DIY service and maintenance jobs including checking power steering and transmission fluid. The manual will also give you information on how often to change the oil as well as the check and service intervals for the car’s other systems. That way, you won’t be relying on a warning light on the dashboard to tell you that action is needed.

If you have any doubts, there’s always the option of taking the vehicle to a service centre, but even talking to a family friend who is a mechanic might give you the confidence to give this task a go. Changing a car’s oil is not tricky, but there are things you must remember, including disposing of the used oil in an environmentally responsible way.

If you like the idea of the Honda but don’t want such a physically large package, take a look at the Honda Jazz. Yes, it’s probably one size down from your current Focus, but its interior is very spacious for its external dimensions. It’s also the car that has probably the most versatile interior in terms of flexible seating arrangements with a rear seat that folds, slides and tumbles. It also has normal ride height (as opposed to the jacked-up stance that SUVs boast) so your dog may find it easier to jump in without hitting anything. Beyond that, you really need to visit dealerships and check for yourself that rear doors, rear seats and general layout suit your very specific canine requirements.

Plastic interior components in Japanese and European cars were once very susceptible to early failures in terms of cracking, peeling, discolouring and warping. The problem was that the manufacturers from these markets had an utter lack of understanding of Australian levels of UV radiation and heat cycles and, as a result, their plastic interiors soon disintegrated. Things soon changed for the better, however, and modern cars have very resilient interior fittings.

However, that makes it even stranger that your car should be exhibiting this problem. I’s not something that we’ve seen across a wide cross-section of CR-V vehicles, so maybe it’s a one-off manufacturing fault. Perhaps the plastic trim piece you refer to was damaged when it was fitted at the factory and has gradually become worse with age. Either way, it should be a simple warranty repair for your local dealership. Replacing the trim piece with a new one is the answer as the damaged part probably can’t be repaired economically.