Hyundai ix35 Problems

The good thing about modern stereo systems is that they’re (mostly) a universal size so that you can literally take your pick of the unit you decide to fit. So it will come down to your budget and your requirements.

A good upgrade is a unit with Bluetooth connectivity so you can wirelessly connect your phone to access navigation, music and other apps. But don’t forget that the head unit is just part of the stereo system, and you may need to upgrade the car’s speakers to take full advantage of the new stereo.

If you’ve just bought a new car, it’s very important to discover what recalls have been issued for it over the years and whether those fixes have been attended to.

My list of recalls for this model Hyundai iX35 includes one for a seat-belt tensioner cable that was not attached properly, one for an air-bag retention nut that was incorrectly torqued and could cause the air-bag to deploy incorrectly, one for a transmission cooler hose problem on automatic versions, one for a potential fuel hose leak and a fifth recall for a potential engine oil leak on the 2.4-litre petrol variant.

When an engine blows thick white (or bluish-white) smoke, it’s often a sign of internal engine wear. Some Hyundai engines have had problems with major engine components developing premature wear and causing similar problems to the ones you’ve experienced. But some Hyundai engines of this era also suffered problems with the EGR valve (exhaust gas regulation, part of the emissions control system) and that could lead to similar problems.

The best advice is to have the vehicle inspected for internal wear or any other problems that could be causing the smoking under load situation. This is pretty back to basics stuff and would include a compression test and leak-down test and should be well within the capabilities of any decent workshop. From there, you can make a more informed decision on whether to spend the money to have the car fixed, or cut your losses and move on.

It's also worth mentioning that Hyundai has been very pro-active in helping out owners who have experienced premature engine-wear problems, but the age of your car plays against this. It would be worth contacting Hyundai’s customer service division, however.

Each radio unit has a different code as a means of preventing them being stolen (or, at least, making them worthless if they were stolen). The best place to start looking for that individual code is inside the owner’s manual. Often, the dealer that sold the car new will have recorded the code, say, on the back of a business card or somewhere inside the manual or its folder, for future reference. And, yes, recording the code somewhere in the glove-box does tend to negate the value of having a secret code in the first place.

If you can’t find the code there, my understanding is that the dealer who sold the car new (information that should also be in the owner’s manual or service handbook) will have a record of all the codes to all the radios in cars sold by them. The catch is that you have to know the serial number of the actual radio before this can be checked. To do that, the radio will need to be removed from the dashboard and the serial number noted.

If you’re lucky, the problem might be as simple as a blown fuse that controls these circuits. So that’s where to start checking. The instrument panel lights and rear fog lights in the Hyundai are on separate circuits, so you’ll need to locate both fuses. Start with the internal fuse box located low down on the dashboard near the steering column. The inside of the cover will have a map of which fuse does what, but don’t forget there’s also a second fuse box under the bonnet.

If the problem is not a blown fuse, or the fuse blows again once you’ve changed it, you’ll probably need to services of an auto electrician to figure out where the power is going and what’s the cause. A poor earth somewhere on the car or a short circuit are two likely culprits.

This was a huge problem for manufacturers back when turbo-diesels first started using Diesel Particulate Filters (DPF). The problems started when owners were using their diesel-powered vehicles just as they had their previous petrol cars. That is, for short, urban journeys where the exhaust system never got hot enough to perform a DPF regeneration (which is critical to the way these filters reduce tailpipe emissions).

To counter that, some manufacturers programmed the engine to dump extra fuel into the exhaust to get it hot enough for a DPF regeneration. Inevitably, however, sometimes some of that extra fuel found its way past the piston rings and into the engine's sump. And suddenly, there was more oil in the sump one day than had been there the previous day.

The problem there was that the diesel now in the sump was actually diluting the engine's lubricating oil, and that could lead to accelerated engine wear and bearing failure. The best solution – then and now – is to make sure you drive the vehicle at freeway speeds for at least an hour every three or four weeks. That will get things hot enough for the DPF to regenerate if it has to, and not rely on the extra diesel the computer will pour into the engine.

You could be looking at a specific DPF problem or maybe a software glitch that is messing up the regeneration, but if the level on the dipstick is rising, then I'd say that's your problem.

If you're selling or trading-in the car, then a quality, tested second-hand engine from a wrecked iX35 is probably your best bet. This will be the cheaper option and even though you could spend a lot of money having the current engine reconditioned or a brand-new engine fitted, you'll find that won't affect the resale value as much as the extra outlay.

That said, it all depends on what's wrong with the current engine. If it's completely trashed, then a replacement is the go. But if your engine has simply stopped working for a potentially simple reason, then it might be worthwhile fixing it and maybe saving even more money. Either way, making your car a proper running vehicle again will definitely justify the cost as it's virtually worthless in a non-running state.

As for other brands of engines, the only viable choice is the same engine that make and model came with from the factory. Trying to fit anything else is a whole new car of very expensive worms.

If a timing belt breaks, one of two things are likely. Either the broken belt will allow the valves and pistons of the engine to collide, instantly turning the engine to scrap. (This is what happens in what's known as an interference engine design.)

The other alternative is that the belt snaps, but no intrinsic metallic parts collide (this is the case in a non-interference engine). If that's the case, the car won't run, but if a new belt is fitted and the engine retimed, it should work perfectly afterwards.

But even in an interference engine, if the tensioner gets slack but doesn't actually allow the timing belt to jump ship or break, then there's a chance that you've avoided a catastrophic failure. The bottom line is that if your engine suffered a problem with the timing belt, but works properly after being fixed, then all should be good in the long run.

It sounds like you’re on the right track with the transmission, Melissa. Transmission oil goes black when it starts to pick up bits of burnt clutch and band material shed by the gearbox’s internal parts. If that’s happening, there’s also a good chance that the transmission is worn and that’s causing the lack of acceleration and slipping you’re experiencing.

This sort of problem can be caused by low transmission fluid levels, a worn out pump or just plain old wear and tear. A check of the torque converter’s health would also be a good idea, but on the surface, it sounds like the transmission is ready to be rebuilt. Have the vehicle scanned and see what faults – if any – are thrown up by the computer. It could be something simple, but the black transmission fluid tends to tell a different story. It should be a nice, clear red colour.

I don't think anybody these days considers less than seven years and just over 100,000km to be the lifespan of a modern engine. Certainly not in a car serviced properly. And since this is a known problem with these engines, I think you have a very good case for Hyundai to at least help out with the repairs on a pro-rata basis.

Our experience lately has been that some Hyundai dealerships have been ignoring cases like these and not giving them the consideration they perhaps should be. In any case, any decision to help out with repairs must come from head office, so I'd forget about the dealership for now and go straight to the top. Hyundai Australia has a customer service division and that's who you need to be talking to. Approaching the ACCC should be your last resort, but at least give Hyundai the chance to do the right thing by a loyal customer.