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One of the biggest criticisms of the 2017 Great Wall Steed was that it had Isofix restraint anchor points in the seat bases, but no legal top-tether anchoring points at the top of the seat. As such, the vehicle was unsuitable for carrying children of child-restraint age with safety body ANCAP stating the vehicle was “not suitable for transporting young children”. This was a major reason the vehicle scored just two out of five safety stars from ANCAP.
It’s possible to retrofit top-tether points, but, because of the consequences of getting this wrong, the changes would have to be approved by a consulting engineer and signed off by the Tasmanian state registration authorities.
The simplest cause of a problem like this is the little sensor that `knows’ when the gear selector is in park. If the sensor fails or is maladjusted, it can’t tell the computer that the vehicle is in park (or neutral) at which point the computer won’t allow the engine to start.
However, before you start replacing bits and pieces, consider that this is a pretty obvious warranty job and LDV is obliged to fix it at no cost to you. Provided you have had the vehicle serviced properly and haven’t exceeded 130,000km, LDV’s responsibilities are quite clear.
In 1997, the Ford Transit was offered with a pair of diesel engines and a petrol engine. But the most powerful of them (the petrol) could muster up just 83kW, which, combined with the weight of the vehicle (around 1600kg) plus the weight of the camper conversion (maybe another tonne with full water tanks etc), equals paltry performance and acceleration.
The simplest thing to do is make sure the engine is tuned to its absolute best. But even then, you’re fighting an uphill (literally) battle thanks to all that mass, not to mention the appalling aerodynamics of a campervan. If you don’t mind spending a lot more money, you could upgrade the engine and transmission to a more modern one but, at that point, you’re probably better off buying a newer van altogether.
Maybe in 1997 life was quite a bit slower and your vehicle wasn’t such a mobile roadblock. That said, plenty of modern day caravaners are happy to sit at 80 or 90km/h, so maybe you just need to find the right mindset and become a bit more Zen with your camper. Of course, even if you do manage that, some driving tasks such as overtaking and merging into traffic will require plenty of forward planning and understanding from other motorists.
You’re in luck here, Tony, because both the petrol and diesel engines fitted to this generation of the i30 used timing chains rather than rubber toothed timing belts. As such, the chain should be good for the life of the engine, rather than requiring scheduled replacement like a timing belt.
For the record, most manufacturers say a rubber timing-belt should be changed (roughly) at 100,000km or 10-year intervals. That said, some carmakers recommend much shorter intervals, so it’s worth knowing this stuff. A failed timing belt will often destroy the rest of the engine, but so can a timing chain if it fails. It’s just that a chain is much less likely to fail in service.
This sounds like a body computer problem. The body computer is the brains that controls a huge range of features but, tellingly, also the climate control and entertainment systems, as well as functions such as the wipers, central locking and much more. These computers can sometimes fail and require replacement, but sometimes they can be rebooted or 'returned to factory settings’ to use an IT term.
The easiest way to do this – not to mention the cheapest – is to disconnect the car’s battery and leave it overnight. It sounds odd, but this will sometimes force the reboot it needs to begin operating properly again. It doesn’t always works and even if it does, the effects may not be permanent. But it’s well worth a try before you take it to an auto electrician or specialist.
While it’s true that many check-engine lights are caused by a problem within the exhaust system, there are literally hundreds of other reasons for a non-specific check-engine light to suddenly illuminate. To simply start changing sensors in the hope of hitting on the right one is a great way to waste time and money and still have a car with a check-engine light (which, technically, makes it unroadworthy).
If you are convinced the exhaust is the culprit, a likely suspect is the oxygen sensor which more or less sniffs the engine’s exhaust gas to determine whether the fuel/air mixture is correct and that the engine is burning cleanly. The sensors are usually screwed into the exhaust system near the catalytic converter. They’re not usually too difficult to change (assuming you can get the car in the air) but a better bet would be to have the car electronically scanned to discover the real reason the check-engine light is glowing.
What you’re probably hearing is the pump switching on to prime the engine’s fuel system so that it starts easily and promptly. Even though the engine isn’t running, when you switch the ignition on, systems like the fuel pump all come to life to get things ready to be started and driven. When the pump has generated enough fuel pressure and volume to start the engine, it can then switch off and only switch on again once the engine is running and a constant supply of fuel is required. This could be why it only runs for a few seconds when you first turn the ignition on.
This is pretty normal, but what isn’t is if the pump starts to make a new noise or the tone of its buzzing changes. At that point, what you might be hearing is wear or damage inside the pump.
This is a slightly tricky one because while both the SRi and SRi-V were fitted with the same engine, this point in time marked a change in specification. Around March of 2013, Holden switched the SRi and SRi-V engines form the 1.4-litre unit to the 1.6-litre unit. The automatic transmission was updated with a sport-shift mode and predictive down shifting, although physically the automatic and manual transmissions were carried over to the 1.6-litre version.
On the surface, this sounds like a viable swap, but you could run into wiring and computer problems in trying to make what was a 1.4-litre car `talk’ to the 1.6-litre engine. The 1.6-litre engine also used direct fuel injection, so you’d need the entire engine management system and computer to go with the swap. There may also be physical differences in things like airbox design and exhaust locations, too, so you need to drag out the tape measure and make an assessment based on measurements and facts. However, if your 2013 car was one from later in that year, it will already have the 1.6-litre engine and the swap to an engine from a 2014 car should be pretty straightforward.
From memory, that model Audi Q7 had the option of rear window sunshades which are a great addition and should really be standard on any car sold in Australia. In this model, the shades were manually operated so you need to grab a small tab and pull the blind upwards to fix it in place. If the tabs are missing, the shade may be broken or may have been removed by a previous owner, leaving just the empty slot in the door trim.
Some cars also had electronically-operated shades, so a check of the owner’s manual may reveal where the relevant button is located. If the shades are missing, you may be able to find an aftermarket replacement that uses the same factory mounting points. There are lots of aftermarket choices online.
Fan belts and other rubber drive belts can squeak or squeal if they’re not correctly adjusted for tension. Usually, a too-loose belt will be the cause, and to fix it, you need to slacken off the adjuster and tighten the belt to the correct tension.
In some cases, though, you may find the noise is coming from a partially seized or worn bearing in one of the pulleys. You could try a little squirt of penetrating fluid on the bearings to see if that makes the noise go away. If the bearing is really worn, however, it will need to be replaced.
Sometimes the noise will be caused by coolant or water getting on to the rubber belt. Check the radiator and its hoses for leaks that could be allowing fluid on to the rubber and making it squeal.