Ford Transit Engine Problems

In 1997, the Ford Transit was offered with a pair of diesel engines and a petrol engine. But the most powerful of them (the petrol) could muster up just 83kW, which, combined with the weight of the vehicle (around 1600kg) plus the weight of the camper conversion (maybe another tonne with full water tanks etc), equals paltry performance and acceleration.

The simplest thing to do is make sure the engine is tuned to its absolute best. But even then, you’re fighting an uphill (literally) battle thanks to all that mass, not to mention the appalling aerodynamics of a campervan. If you don’t mind spending a lot more money, you could upgrade the engine and transmission to a more modern one but, at that point, you’re probably better off buying a newer van altogether.

Maybe in 1997 life was quite a bit slower and your vehicle wasn’t such a mobile roadblock. That said, plenty of modern day caravaners are happy to sit at 80 or 90km/h, so maybe you just need to find the right mindset and become a bit more Zen with your camper. Of course, even if you do manage that, some driving tasks such as overtaking and merging into traffic will require plenty of forward planning and understanding from other motorists.

The model you've nominated has a timing chain, which, in theory, should be good for the life of the engine. However, that's not always the case, and some specialists recommend changing the timing chain at intervals of 200,000km. That is still a pretty decent innings for a hard-working vehicle like a Transit and is longer than the change interval for most engines with toothed rubber timing belts.

You’ve gone down the right path by having the vehicle scanned first, and even though no fault codes were revealed, that doesn’t mean it was a waste of time. In some cases, a mechanic experienced in a particular make and model will know that a fault with no code is caused by a specific part or piece of software. LS1 Holden V8s, for instance can experience a misfire with no code showing up. In that case, an experienced LS1 mechanic will go straight to the spark plugs as the cause.

So the best advice is to find a Ford Transit specialist as this problem has almost certainly occurred before to somebody else. Be aware, too, that Transits built between September 2014 and January 2015 were subject to a recall to replace a batch of faulty fuel injectors which were causing the precise symptoms you’ve noted. Ford believed the problem was solved for vehicles built after January 2015 (including yours) but it’s worth checking since it was a big enough problem for Ford Australia to issue a fleet-wide recall.

Probably not, and since this would be a classic back-yard conversion, we don't know of any documented proof or a set of instructions for how to do it.

The bigger question, of course, is why you'd want to try to perform such a transplant. It might be different if the Transit itself was not available with a diesel engine option, but it has been for many years. So why try to adapt a Toyota engine? Buy a diesel Transit and save yourself a lifetime of hassles.

Seriously, aside from the big issues of making a foreign engine physically fit in a van's compromised engine bay, you'd also have the detail problems of running cables and electrics. Then there's the question of making the engine talk to the rest of the car in an electronic sense, which involves everything from the engine-control computer to making sure the dashboard functions properly. And do you use the Transit gearbox, or instal the whole Toyota driveline? Even then, fi you manage to achieve all this, you'd have to convince the registration authorities that the thing was fit to drive on the road.

You’re on the right track, Don, with your guess that the whistling noise has something to do with the turbocharger’s bearing. But unfortunately, if you’re right and it’s the turbo bearing that’s making the whistling noise (and I agree with your theory) then a new or rebuilt turbocharger is the only real fix. Turbos have a hard life, dealing with extremes of temperature as well as the requirement to accelerate from almost nothing to anything up to 250,000rpm. The bearings that allow for this are sealed units and – generally – are not serviceable.

But you might be lucky: A lack of turbo boost can be caused by many things, so check the basics like a loose boost pipe before you start tearing the engine apart.

The problem could be caused by a whole lot of things, Bill. Have the vehicle scanned to see if any error codes crop up which could then lead you to something like a dodgy fuel pump, worn injectors, a leak in the fuel system somewhere or even a crook sensor that is feeding incorrect information to the computer. To be honest, I’m suspecting a broken throttle-position sensor (TPS), especially as you need to floor the throttle to get the engine to start. Without the TPS working properly, the computer has no way of knowing how much fuel to inject into the engine.

They have a cam timing belt.

The people who sold you the vehicle have a legal responsibility under our consumer laws to find the fault and fix it. It clearly is not in a fit state to use while this fault is present. If that vendor is Ford, Ford should fix it. If it is the motorhome manufacturer, they should fix it. Either way it needs to be fixed, and must be under our laws. The fact that the engine can be restarted once it's been moved suggests that the system is being reset after falsely detecting a fault, and is electronic as you suspect.

Like you I think the value of some of the technology we're being sold is questionable. The fuel saving and emission reductions that flow from the start/stop function are miniscule.

The engine would run on bio-diesel, but if you swap you should service it and replace filters etc. after running a tank of bio through it. The bio-diesel will remove all the varnish that's built up in the fuel system and that will accumulate in the filters. It should be fine after doing that service, but I wouldn't advise doing it unless you can get bio-diesel wherever you go. It's not a good idea to be switching back and forth. A "Power Chip" is claimed to improve the economy, but you need to drive accordingly to achieve the claimed improvement. Most people don't get the economy benefits because they make use of the increase in power it also delivers.  Fitting a second reserve tank would be a good move, that way you can take advantage of price swings and buy when the fuel is cheapest; you can also buy in the major centres where the rice is usually lower than in remote areas and the quality more reliable. Transits are prone to turbo failure, so I would have the dealer check that before you go bush.