Ford Laser Problems
No car is perfect, but we've gathered everything relating to the Ford Laser reliability here to help you decide if it's a smart buy.
What price my hatch?
IT'S the last of the KQ model, which a dealer would try to sell for about $15,000 at full retail. To sell it privately, I would suggest you ask for about $12,000 to start with, but be prepared to come down if it doesn't attract any interest.
Key concerns
WE CONTACTED Ford on your behalf and it has responded with the following, which should fix your problem. Unfortunately Ford doesn't have the code for the key of your vehicle. However, its service technicians advise that if a locksmith removes the door lock (a relatively simple job), they can cut you a new key to the same specifications as the one you now have.
Laser points
THE KE Laser has moved beyond the age at which dealers are interested, but they are a popular little car and would make a good starter for a young driver who wants economical motoring. If your car is in good condition I would think its worth $2500-$3500 if sold privately.
What's a good first car for a son?
WITH $3000, your son shouldn't be choosy. Cast a wider net and search for the best car you can find for the money. It's better to have a car in good condition, though it might not be a cool choice. That might sound boring, but he'll get better service out of a car in tiptop shape than one that might have a better image but is run down.
Squealing brakes
THE squealing is probably caused because the mechanic who did the last reline didn't use anti-squeal compound. You can find anti-squeal products at your local auto retailer and that should fix your problem.
Long-lasting laser
I CAN'T predict when your engine might expire, but you could get a guide by having a mechanic check some of its vitals. You say it drives well and isn't using oil, which is a good sign. But check to see if it's blowing smoke under any conditions and have a mechanic run a compression test to check the state of each cylinder. If all that comes out positive, I wouldn't be concerned about the engine giving up in the near future. As for the Astra, I have no problems recommending it.
The `bomb' dilemma
GETTING it to a mechanic is easy. You can either get it towed there by tow truck, or you can get a permit from VicRoads that will allow you to drive it to and from your mechanic's premises. Buying a car unregistered and without a roadworthy certificate is always a gamble, unless you can have it checked by a mechanic or a body such as the RACV before you hand over the cash. Without a thorough check, one can't possibly know what you might have to do to make it roadworthy. In your case, with more than 200,000km on it, there is probably going to be lots, which could make your bargain buy look very expensive.
Break in the chatter
I TAKE it the chattering is a relatively new development, in which case it suggests something has changed. It's difficult to diagnose your problem, but I would be looking closely at the discs and pads. I would look for signs of glazing of the pads, which can happen on new pads if they're not properly bedded in. Glazed pads can cause the sort of chattering you're experiencing, and I'd also consider having the discs machined to make sure there's a good surface for the pads to work on.