Honda Civic Problems

The first thing to do is to make sure your phone has Bluetooth switched on and is in Discoverable mode. Then, go to the menu on the car's info-screen and select Settings. Then scroll down and select Setup and then Bluetooth. From there, touch on Add a New Device. The car will then search for nearby devices and display them. When your phone's ID appears, scroll to it and press the Select button. Make sure the code on the screen for Bluetooth Honda Civic matches the code shown on your phone and you're good to go.

There are also online tutorials on how to connect Bluetooth to Honda Civic cars, and these are worth watching provided the unit in question is the same as the system in Australian-delivered Civics. Some markets had different set-ups, so make sure you watch the right video.

If all that fails, the connection instructions are in the car's owner's manual which, hopefully, is in the car's glove-box.

This system of Honda Civic Bluetooth paring was introduced on 2018 and on Civics, but it's worth mentioning that those earlier cars did not have on-board sat-nav. So to get navigation on the RS or VTi-L model, you definitely need your phone connected to make use of your phone's nav system.

The recommended Honda Civic engine oil is a fully synthetic 0W20 oil. That’s what oil manufacturers say is best for any of the Civic engines sold here from 2017 onwards. That includes the 1.8-litre and 1.5-litre petrol engines as well as the high-performance Civic Type R model.

Like many Honda engines over the years, the Honda Civic oil passages can be quite small and narrow, so a good supply of clean, fresh oil is critical to these cars. That’s also why the Honda Civic oil type is a very light (thin) oil; so it flows easily and quickly.

If you know how to perform a service on any other modern car, then you already know how to change oil on a Honda Civic. It’s a DIY maintenance job for anybody who is an average mechanic and involves little in the way of tools apart from an oil filter wrench and the correct size socket or spanner to tackle the drain plug. You’ll also need drain pans and the car’s owner’s manual which will tell you things like how often to change oil, any other service interval info and specifications for how tight the drain plug needs to be tightened.

Failing all that, a trip to any service centre will be able to supply the oil and replacement filter, dispose of the waste oil and even reset the service reminder light as part of the process.

The CVT you’re referring to is actually the car’s transmission rather than its engine. And since the engine is what drives the air-conditioning compressor, it’s the engine’s power and torque that determines whether the car still drives nicely with the air-conditioning switched on, not whether the transmission is a CVT or any other type.

But I think I know what you are referring to. And that is how well the car’s engine and its CVT transmission are matched. Sometimes, a transmission can gobble up a fair bit of horsepower and torque and that can take the edge off performance. Throw the switch on the air-conditioning and there’s even more load on the engine, making it feel even less perky. In that sense, I think the Corolla as the newer design would have a more efficient transmission and that could mean that it feels the load less than the older Honda might and, therefore, holds on to more of its original performance.

But the second thing you mentioned, that your car’s air-con doesn’t really keep up at temperatures over 30 degrees is more likely to be a problem with the air-con itself. You might find that a five-year-old car (such as your Honda is) is ready for the air-conditioning system to be serviced and perhaps even re-gassed, which might just return it to better health. For the record, Toyota’s have always had some of the best-performing air-conditioning systems in the business over the years, and I very much doubt that a 30-degree day would tax the air-con in a new Corolla one iota.

You don't need to spend $30,000 to get a great small car to run around town in. A Suzuki Swift GL Navigator from $17,690 plus on-road costs ($1000 more for the auto) makes for an excellent choice, with a surprisingly roomy interior, a refined, frugal and lively engine, great handling and superb reliability. Great value for money, in other words.

Moving on from there, to the next size up and in our order of preference, are the Mazda 3, Ford Focus Active, Volkswagen Golf, Toyota Corolla Hatch, Honda Civic (turbo only) and Subaru Impreza. All are quality small cars that should fit the bill perfectly.

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As you can see, there's lots of choice, so take your time, drive the ones you like the look of, and see which feels best. Out of scores of alternatives, these 10 are our top recommendations at under $30K.

I think what’s happening when you open the fuel cap, Frank, is not a release of pressure, but rather a release of vacuum. As your car uses petrol, the level in the tank gets lower. If the tank can’t `breathe’, allowing air to fill that space in the tank, a vacuum is created. Eventually, the vacuum becomes so powerful that the car’s fuel pump can no longer drag fuel from the tank to the engine and the car stalls.

When you remove the fuel cap, hey presto, the vacuum is released and the fuel pump can do its thing once more. In modern cars, this is often caused by the charcoal canister (a part of the pollution-control equipment) becoming clogged and not allowing air back into the fuel tank. I’ve actually seen cases so bad that the vacuum has actually collapsed the fuel tank under the car (must have been a powerful fuel pump).

Driving around with no fuel cap on is both dangerous and illegal (it renders those pollution controls useless because it allows fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere) so the solution is to find out where the blockage is and replace the relevant parts. Like I said, I’d start with the charcoal canister in the engine bay. It could even be that dust or dirt is blocking one of the rubber hoses that link the pollution gear systems. It might seem like a big problem, but from the symptoms you’ve listed, I think it’ll be an easy fix.

Honda’s solution to navigation was to equip its lower-spec Civics of this period with Apple CarPlay and Android Auto which allowed you to use the navigation apps on your smartphone to interface with the car’s info screen. If you wanted stand-alone, factory satellite navigation, you needed to spend up a bit bigger and buy the VTi-LX version of the Civic which had a Garmin system that also featured live traffic updates.

Hyundai has the Elantra, Honda the Civic, and Toyota the Camry. All can be bought as sedans and all fall within your budget. For mine the Camry represents the best value for the money.

It's hard to know without more information. The cost will vary depending on the variant and model and wether you go to a dealer or locksmith. You can read a more indepth explanation of replacing key fobs here.