Mitsubishi Pajero Problems

The Mitsubishi Pajero is one of the longest running models ever, and was first seen in 2006 in much the same form as today’s version. With that in mind, the vehicle is very much a known quantity and the trade regards the mechanical package highly.

As with any off-road oriented machine, the major thing to check is how the vehicle has been used (and abused) in the past. If it’s highly accessorised with winches, mud tyres, bash plates and lifted suspension, you can be fairly sure it’s had a tough life.

As the vehicle in question approaches 100,000km, you’ll be up for a new timing belt, as that’s the recommended change interval (some say 90,000km). While you’re in there, the advice is to change the water pump and the various tensioners and pulleys at the same time. It’s a lot easier to do it all in one hit than have to open the front of the engine a second time.

On the recall front, the big one to watch is the Takata air-bag fiasco which did affect this model.

I don’t know of any insurance companies that will pay out an increased amount because of recent repairs. The presumption would have been that your car was worth the $6000 agreed-value amount only if it was in good working order and not in a damaged state. Following that presumption is the fact that, if it needed $1500 spent on it to bring it back to that condition, that’s simply a wear and tear cost that is not the insurer’s problem. It’s a cruel world, no?

As for the payout figure including (or not) the registration refund, I’d imagine that would be up to the insurer and would be included in the dreaded fine-print. From what I can gather, this is a pretty common inclusion on most policy wordings, and many insurers will adjust the payout down to include the policy excess (if, unlike your case, Tracey, you were at fault) and the unused portion of the CTP insurance and registration. But get this: Some insurers will even deduct the costs of the rest of the year’s insurance premium from your payout, even if you were paying the premium monthly! Never gloss over the fine print.

The lack of performance suggests it could be in ‘limp home’ mode. Have a mechanic do a diagnostic check on it.

It’s likely to be a problem with the actuation system for the front diff, such as the solenoids, vacuum line, actuator, or the sensor in the diff.

The cost of a replacement key fob will depend on if you go to a dealer or locksmith as well as how old the car is. You can read our advice piece for more information on the best way to replace your car keys.

Take it back again and tell them their lubrication didn’t fix it. Lubrication is only a temporary fix; it’s not something that will work long term. Ask them to have another go at it.

If you don’t feel you’re getting any satisfaction, go directly to Mitsubishi (1300 13 12 11) and lodge a warranty claim for a lasting repair.

You’ve pretty much covered the field there, so it should come down to what you want from your car. Do you want comfort, safety, fuel efficiency, offroad capability, cabin space? If you are mostly driving on the highway, then a diesel SUV is probably the best bet. I would rule out a dual-cab ute because of comfort, unless you need the flexibility a ute gives you. I would rule out a hybrid, they’re not at their most efficient on the highway; they’re better suited to town use. Based on your annual mileage I wouldn’t keep the car any more than 3-4 years, that way you’ll have a decent resale value when you get out of it.

Take it to a Mitsubishi dealer, or a reputable automatic transmission specialist to have it checked. It could be the computer controlling the auto, but you need a specialist to check it for you.