Mitsubishi Triton Problems

The Brumby would have been a good choice 10 years ago, but finding one now that hasn’t been driven into the ground, beaten to death, or rusted away is nigh on impossible. Instead of buying a dodgy old your son a favour and buy him a decent car, one that doesn’t belong in a scrap yard, and will serve him well for some time into the future. I would go for a Hilux, Triton, or Bravo 2600.

You haven’t told us what model your Triton is, so we can only make general comments. Check the turbocharger, it’s not coming on as it should.

It sounds like it is going into limp mode, which means the computer is seeing something wrong, perhaps with a sensor. Being intermittent it’s hard for the dealer to fix. Persist with it and keep taking it back.

Next time it stops turn the ignition off and then attempt to restart it. It’s likely that it will start and you should be able to drive on.

The kerb weight of a 1999 Triton is 1485 kg, the gross vehicle mass is 2810 kg, the payload is 1345 kg, the towing capacity is 1500 kg with trailer brakes.

Check the warranty document, which should tell you what is specifically not covered. Normally it’s the consumables that are not covered, that’s things like oil filters, air cleaners, spark plugs, belts, brakes and clutches. Fuel injectors don’t normally fall into the consumable category.

It’s a hard call, and comes down to what you want it to do. The Workmate is cheaper, has a larger engine, and a higher towing rating, but is not as economical as the Triton. On the whole the Toyota comes out on top.

The dealer is giving you the brush-off. Take it to another mechanic and get a second opinion.

The claimed average for the Triton diesel is 9.6 L/100 km, the claimed consumption for urban driving is 11.9 L/100 km, for highway/country driving it’s 8.3 L/100 km. That, of course, is the result of a laboratory test, not a real world one, so you have to allow for some variation.

You also have to allow for some variation due to loading, driving style, road conditions, tyres and the general state of the car. I’d recommend that you keep accurate records of the fuel used so you have the data to present to the dealer, and to Mitsubishi. If your data shows the car is not performing as they claim it should ask them to rectify it. Should they refuse approach the consumer affairs people with a claim that the vehicle as supplied to you is not what was represented to you.

I reckon your mechanic is on the money with the injectors. Worn injectors are a common problem on common-rail diesels; it's something that affects most brands