Mercedes-Benz C-Class Problems

According to the official government test, the 2002 C240 should return fuel consumption of 10.8 litres per 100km in city driving and 6.8 litres per 100km on the highway. In reality, of course, most drivers never get anywhere near these figures as they’re not based on real-world driving, rather a laboratory test. They do, however, serve as a comparison between makes and models given the test is identical for each vehicle.

Most owners of these cars seem to report using between eight and nine litres per 100km on a country drive and considerably more than that around the city and suburbs.

Yes, it is. For the record, this engine is a double-overhead camshaft design with four valves per cylinder, and produces 165kW of power and 510Nm of torque. It’s known amongst diesels for its smoothness and good fuel economy.

The service intervals for this model were every 15,000km or 12 months, so the fact that so many for sale have the same mileage showing is more likely to be a coincidence or the fact that at 10 years of age, most owners have been covering the national average of about 13,000km per year.

Some cars that need timing belt replacements often hit the second-hand market all together as the owners try to avoid the cost of this, but the engine in your car has a timing chain which should be good for the life of the vehicle.

Other factors contributing to the pack-trade-in phenomenon include psychological barriers like a mileage of 100,000km recorded and the age of the car. In this case, the car’s 10^th birthday might be the catalyst for the mass selling.

I've used the last versions of both those models for this comparison, which means a 2019 BMW 320d and a 2021 Mercedes-Benz 220d (I'm also assuming you're comparing diesels with diesels).

As such, the BMW holds a slim on-paper advantage with an official combined fuel consumption number of 4.4 litres per 100km, compared with 4.7 litres for the Benz. In the real world, that difference is a very, very small one and means the two vehicles are more or less line-ball for fuel economy.

Real world fuel consumption has a lot more to do with your driving environment and style than it does these laboratory-produced numbers. But the official numbers are valid on the basis that both vehicles were subjected to the same strict test regime, so they do provide a direct comparison, even if you'll almost certainly never match them in real life. Both, however, will surprise you with how frugal they can be.

You don’t have to fit run-flat tyres to your car, but it can be a lot more convenient. A decade or so ago, it was quite common to replace run-flat tyres with more conventional tyres as the ride quality of run-flats was relatively poor. These days, that isn’t the case to the same extent, and run-flats have come a long way.

But if you can’t get them in the correct size, then you have a problem that can be solved by fitting conventional tyres of the correct size, speed rating and load rating. A tyre shop should be able to sort this out for you.

The catch, of course, is that a conventional tyre won’t get you home if it deflates for any reason (as a run-flat is designed to do). The knock-on problem there is that a car designed for run-flats will not only not have a spare tyre, it won’t even have a physical space to put one. The solution then is to find a repair kit of the type found in many cars today. This amounts to a tin of repair solution which is added to the tyre through the valve and the tyre reinflated with the attached compressor.

If the transmission is working properly between bouts of slippage, then it’s reasonable to think that this could be an electronic problem rather than a mechanical one. By turning the ignition off and then restarting, you’re effectively resetting the computer that controls the transmission. That’s why the gearbox comes good for a period before reverting to its old tricks.

That’s on the surface, anyway, but the problem could also be within the torque converter or something intermittent inside the actual gearsets, clutches, bands or valve body that is giving the same set of symptoms.

Ultimately, this is probably going to require a trip to a transmission specialist who will be able to identify the cause more accurately. In the meantime, though, there’s something you can try that might reset the transmission more permanently. On this model Mercedes-Benz, there’s a specific transmission-reset procedure that should take the gearbox back to its original factory settings. If that’s the case, it might fix your problem, but if not, then you need to call in the experts.

The procedure starts with getting in the car, closing all the doors and turning the ignition key to the on position, but not actually starting the engine. You should have all the dashboard lights illuminated at this point. Then, press the accelerator pedal right to the floor, making sure you can feel that the kick-down détente has been activated. Hold the pedal all the way down for at least 60 seconds and then, without releasing the accelerator, turn off the ignition. Don’t open the door and don’t remove the key from the ignition. Now release the accelerator and wait five minutes before starting the engine and going for a test drive.

Good luck.

Colleagues of mine have noted that the C43 isn’t at its happiest when taking off from a standing start sometimes, particularly if the stop-start function is engaged. That said, the harshest description of the problem was the odd clunk when launching the car, but even with that system switched off, the AMG sometimes seems to have problems deciding which gear to select, leading to a lack of smoothness. Perhaps it’s not helped by the fact that the car is all-wheel-drive, and grips the road extremely well when perhaps a little `give’ in the driveline mightn’t be a bad thing. Maybe it’s the traction-control stepping in too early and interrupting the flow of power to the wheels.

That said, your problem sounds a lot more severe than that. The C43 uses a conventional torque converter automatic transmission, so it doesn’t suffer some of the jerkiness that other cars using dual-clutch technology can. It’s puzzling though, that the computer isn’t throwing up any fault codes, so maybe your car is simply doing what some C43s do to a greater or lesser extent. If it’s as bad as you say, it’s not good enough and you should pursue the problem with Mercedes-Benz and have the problem corrected under warranty.

I’ll assume you’re talking about a C200, Kevin, which was the most popular Benz model with a 200 in its name back in those days. The good news is that, no, that engine doesn’t need a timing belt change. That’s because it uses a timing chain rather than a rubber timing belt and, all things being equal, the timing chain should last the lifespan of the car itself.

All Mercedes-Benz passenger cars from that era would all have been sold brand-new with two keys. If you’ve bought the car second-hand with just the one key, you can contact a Mercedes-Benz dealership, quote the car’s VIN and the dealer will be able to order the correct key and electronically code it to work in your car. It could cost several hundred dollars, however.