Ford Kuga 2013 Problems

It’s a dual-clutch auto similar to the ones that gave so much trouble in other models. As you say an auto transmission should last more than 80,000 km, it’s worth pursuing a claim for a replacement transmission.

You’re correct that a diff should last longer than six years, but how long it should last is open to question. To its credit Ford has offered to pay a portion of the repair cost. They won’t pay the whole cost of the repair as you have had six years of use out of the diff, and it’s now worn as a result of that use. There is no hard and fast rule that applies to your situation. The offer from Ford is based on the amount of wear and the projected life of the diff. You’re best to negotiate with Ford and hold out for the best deal you can get.

It’s the responsibility of the dealer you bought it from to repair it, he’s the one issuing your warranty. The automatic transmission in Fords has been an ongoing problem, and it would seem that the transmission in your car needs to be replaced. The bottom line is you need to sort it out with your dealer, if that doesn’t result in a satisfactory resolution go to VCAT.

We haven't had any other reports of problems like you have experienced. You don't say what engine you have, but if it's a diesel you have the Powershift automatic transmission, which has been troublesome in other Ford models, such as the Focus.

From my personal experience, Hella makes a great range of both HID and LED driving lamps. I'd lean to HID for best long-range penetration. Get a professional to do the installation to ensure the wiring is right and also there is no shake in the lamp mountings.

We contacted Ford for their advice and they told us that "that as the electric brake controller would have been an aftermarket fitting it would need to be fitted by a technician with a thorough understanding of vehicle electronic systems and access to the Kuga workshop manual. The controller for the electric brakes needs to be wired correctly into the vehicle electrical system. If connected incorrectly it may damage the vehicle's electrical system." Clearly the person doing the installation has got it wrong and the damage to your car's electronics is the result. You need to resolve it with the person who did the installation.

I'll start by assuming the fuel consumption figures you quote are in L/100 km, not km per litre. The quoted fuel consumption figure is 7.7-8.0 L/100 km, but remember that this is a guide only based on a laboratory test and not real life. While the real life consumption should be somewhere near the quoted lab test number it depends on a number of factors, from the way you drive, the driving conditions, tyre inflation pressures, state of tune of your car etc. It should be better than it appears to be, so I would talk to the dealer and ask what can be done to reduce the consumption to a more acceptable level.