Holden Colorado Engine Problems

There’s a chance that the battery is old enough that it won’t hold charge for long, so a check of the battery’s general health would be the first step here. Beyond that, conventional wisdom holds that there’s something in the car that’s staying on even though the ignition switch is off, and that’s what’s draining the battery.

But before drawing the latter conclusion, attend to the basics: Make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight and test the vehicle with the engine running to make sure the alternator is, in fact, charging the battery at the correct rate. Most tradesmen agree that something between 13.5 and 14.5 volts at a fast idle is about right for the alternator. While the voltmeter is hooked up, turn on the headlights and make sure that the alternator keeps up. If the voltage drops during this stress test, you could have a dodgy regulator.

If that all checks out, the usual suspects here become a stereo (particularly an aftermarket one) or an alarm system (ditto) that is draining the battery. Make sure that the ignition switch is, indeed, turning everything off and then go back and check the car in the dark to see if there’s a courtesy light or underbonnet light that’s still on and slowly sending the battery flat.

If nothing sticks out as being wrong, the next step would be to take to the car to an auto electrician who can use a multi-meter to check each circuit in the car individually until they find the one that’s energised when it shouldn’t be. It doesn’t take a huge current draw to flatten a battery or at least take it to the point where it will no longer start the car.

Ignoring this will not only eventually leave you stranded, it will send your battery to an early grave as batteries don’t appreciate being flattened over and over again.

If replacing the actual sensor doesn’t fix the problem, then you could be looking at a problem with the wiring that connects that oxygen sensor to the car’s on-board computer. Did the mechanic that changed the sensor check the condition of the wiring? This equipment all lives very close to a very hot exhaust system, so damage from that is not unknown.

There’s also a chance that the computer itself is throwing up a bogus fault code when it’s interrogated. Temporarily swapping the computer for another one is a reasonably simple way to rule this out. There’s also a chance (and it’s more common than you might imagine) that the brand new oxygen sensor you had fitted was a dud straight out of the box. This has definitely been known to happen, and it’s the first thing some experienced mechanics will think to check.

The symptoms you have certainly suggest an engine with far too much blow-by (combustion pressure escaping past the piston rings and into the crankcase). Sometimes, the same symptoms can be caused by a crankcase ventilation system that isn’t working properly, but it’s often blow-by that’s the cause. That’s usually the result of internal engine wear which, at 290,000km and counting, is hardly out of the question.

Basically, the observations you’ve made regarding crankcase fumes are about as far as you can go without actually performing a compression and cylinder leak-down test. The good news is that these tests aren’t overly complicated and don’t take long, but they will give you a vastly more accurate idea of what’s going on inside the engine. Oil in the intercooler can also be a sign of this sort of wear, but, as you’ve been told, can also be the fault of blown turbocharger seals. Either way, it sounds like your engine is due for a freshen up in the name of reliability and clean running.

It’s very difficult to diagnose problems over the phone, just as it is via this website. But, I’d be taking the vehicle straight back to the mechanic in question, because whatever is wrong is going to be fairly major.

In the majority of cases, an engine with a broken crankshaft won’t run. In fact, it won’t even turn over. Sometimes, it will still run, though, and the symptoms you’ve described are spot on for that. Either way, a broken crankshaft is one example of what’s called catastrophic failure and a new crankshaft (at the very least) is the usual result.

But those same symptoms can also be the result of a loose harmonic balancer. And here’s the clue: The harmonic balancer has to be removed to replace the front crankshaft seal (which was done the day before the problems started). If the balancer is not reinstalled correctly, it can start to wobble, tear up the new seal and make all sorts of noises and vibrations. The bad news is that often, the wobbling balancer destroys the end (called the snout) of the crankshaft in the process, so even though the crank is not broken or snapped per se, it may still need to be replaced. It does seem like a fantastic coincidence that the balancer started wobbling the day after it was removed and refitted. That said, if the crankshaft has failed, then a coincidence is precisely what it might be.

Since both variants of Colorado here use essentially the same engine, I’m not sure what sensors would be different and require changing. That said, the MY17 Colorado got recalibrated hill-descent and hill-start functions, so maybe there are some differences there.

The major mechanical difference that I can see between a 2014 and a 2017 Colorado is probably the power-steering. In late 2016, the vehicle switched to an electrically-assisted system in place of the previous hydraulic set-up. So the later engine would probably lack the pulleys and mounting hardware for the hydraulic power-steering pump that your vehicle requires. Perhaps they can be removed from the old engine and fitted to the later one.

Perhaps an easier solution would be to return the engine originally supplied and ask for the correct version for your car. If the engine supplied originally was not fit for purpose, then you’ve every right to ask for a replacement unit that is.

I doubt that it is a low oil pressure problem; it’s more likely to be an electronic issue with the car’s computer or a sensor associated with the ECM.

Halfway on the dipstick suggests that it doesn’t need topping up, try waiting until it gets to the lower mark on the dipstick and see how far that takes you. Holden, or any other carmaker, won't tell you how much oil consumption is ok with their engines, but all engines use some oil. There are two basic reasons an engine might use oil, leaks, or burning. Leaks can usually be seen and easily fixed, burning isn’t so obvious and is more costly to fix. If it is burning oil you should see some evidence in the form of blue smoke from the exhaust. Go along with Holden’s recommendation and do the test.

On the surface it makes no sense at all. I would suggest that you go back and talk to the person who gave you that advice and get them to explain it to you in terms that you can understand it.

It looks like you’ve reached a stalemate. Ryco has told you there is nothing wrong with its filter and are obviously happy to leave it at that. I suggest you sit down with them and discuss your concerns face to face. If that doesn’t achieve a resolution, then take it to consumer affairs.

You should take it back to the people who installed the gas system, as something is amiss with it.