Mazda BT-50 2013 Problems

An open circuit on a fuel injector is usually caused by either a broken wire to the injector, a loose terminal somewhere in the electrical circuit that drives the injector or a burned-out coil in the injector itself.

Changing the suspect injector will tell you if the coil is the problem, but if that doesn’t fix it, you’ve got to work backwards from the injector until you find the fault. Bear in mind that if the injector itself is at fault, the other three injectors might be ready to go out in sympathy. Modern common-rail engines can be hard on injectors and they sometimes need replacing before they’ve done 100,000km.

Rather than the steering completely locking up, it’s more likely you’re feeling steering that has lost is power-assistance. It can make the wheel extremely heavy and could feel as though the car won’t steer at all. This is linked to the engine stalling, because the power-steering on this vehicle is driven by a belt from the engine. No engine means no power-assistance.

The other questions, of course, are why is the engine stalling and why only on left-hand turns. There are plenty of things that can cause a modern engine to stall from a dirty fuel filter to a blocked injector or an electronic fault. And about a million things in between. An electronic scan of the vehicle might throw up a fault code that will help a mechanic unravel what’s going on.

I can assure you the 2013 BT-50 was, indeed, engineered with a heater and this came standard with any BT-50. The dial that controls the coldness of the air-conditioning is the same one that controls the heating. Turn the dial all the way clockwise and you should have warm air entering the cabin through the various vents.

If not, then I'd suggest that a previous owner has blocked off the car's coolant supply to the heater core by rerouting the plumbing so the hot engine coolant no longer enters the heat exchanger in the cabin. This was probably done because the heat exchanger was leaking and this was a quick way to stop the leak and keep the vehicle operational, albeit without a heater. It's one of the oldest tricks in the used-car book.

The best bet is to take the car to a radiator specialist who will be able to figure out what has been removed or bypassed and reinstate the necessary hardware so that your car is heated once again.

The clue here might be in the fact that this problem occurs when you drive slowly for an extended distance. This could suggest that something (engine or transmission perhaps) is becoming hot and the vehicle is switching to limp-home mode to avoid damaging any components. Also, it could be a dodgy sensor which is simply making the vehicle 'think' it's getting hot.

It sounds counter-intuitive, but driving slowly can lead to overheating as there's less air flowing over the radiator and/or oil coolers to whisk temperature away. When you stop the car and re-start it, the on-board computer goes back to its default settings and away you go again until the sensors detect more heat build-up.

With that in mind, I'd be checking the radiators and oil coolers for a build up of dust, mud, leaves and other rubbish which could be blocking airflow. But before you start replacing sensors and other components, have the car scanned (by a mechanic) to see if any fault codes make themselves apparent.

After 100,000 hard off-road kilometres, you'd be wise to check pretty much every system and component of your car, including the wheel bearings. Bush tracks and rough regional roads put all sorts of stresses and strains on mechanical bits like bearings, suspension, brakes, bushes and the whole driveline.

If you read most owner's manuals closely, you'll see that the recommended servicing schedule is based on normal or moderate use, not hard-core off-road work like you've been doing. With that in mind, the advice is to shrink the service intervals and the distances at which major parts like wheel bearing are checked and/or replaced. Give some thought to changing out the vehicle's fluids, too, including the front and rear differentials, as contamination from water crossings can destroy the lubricant and lead to extensive internal wear.

Probably the most common cause of difficult hot-starting in a diesel engine is wear in the fuel pump. If the pump can’t generate the correct pressure due to wear, which is exacerbated by heat, then it may not generate the pressures required to operate the fuel injectors.

This particular engine has a fuel pump which has been known to wear and allow the fuel inside it to overheat, causing the vehicle to go into limp-home mode. But the engine (and many others like it from other brands which use common-rail injection technology) are also notorious for wearing out their fuel injectors over relatively low kilometres. Worn injectors could also be a cause of difficult hot starting.

We contacted Mazda specifically on your behalf, and its response is that only some grades have an engine cover. Ones that do not are the base XT, while the XTR and GT versions do have a cover. We hope this helps.

You’ll almost certainly cause the dashboard to present you with a `check engine’ warning light, Brett, as blocking off the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve is an intrinsic part of the vehicle’s emission controls. Having the vehicle go into limp-home mode is a very real possibility as well.

But perhaps more financially damaging would be the consequences of being caught driving the vehicle with a blocked-off EGR. The government takes a very dim view of anybody disabling any part of a car’s emission controls and the fines for doing so can be huge.

However, I know this is a real issue for many owners of modern turbo-diesels. The problem is that soot from the exhaust gas is mixed with oily fumes from the crankcase and then ingested by the engine as part of keeping emissions down. But the mixture of oil and soot can form a black gunge that can block the intake system. Really, though, blocking the EGR is a fairly clumsy way of getting around this. My advice would be to fit an oil separator which should keep the oily mist from the crankcase ventilation out of the equation.

Is it something new, or has it always been this way? I’m wondering if you’re just feeling the diesel engine, which works best at lower engine speeds. Rev it too high and you’ll lose the effect of the diesel torque. It could simply be that, or it could be an electronic problem. Have a mechanic run a diagnostic check on it to see if there is a problem.

It is a relatively common problem, and it’s made worse by towing in 5th gear.