Mazda BT-50 2016 Problems

The steering system in your Mazda is the old-school hydraulic type, rather than the more modern electrically-assisted set-up. Noises when you turn the steering wheel often indicate a problem with the rack itself or the hydraulics, either of which can make the system grumble and rumble when you deflect it from the straight-ahead.

The first thing to check would be the hydraulic system for leaks. These will show up as drops of fluid seeping from the various joins in the system. A check of the power-steering pump's fluid level is also a good indicator of a leak somewhere; if it's down on where it should be, you have a leak. If that's the case, the whole system probably needs a once over.

You should also check the actual steering column for the source of the noise, as sometimes a simple plastic-on-plastic contact somewhere on the column or its shroud can produce a noise like this.

Within the rack itself are valves and fluid passages that can, over time trap air. When that happens, the air bubbles can make the sort of noise you're hearing, also. So before you spend any money, try this trick: Start the engine with the car stationary and then cycle the steering from full left lock to full right lock a couple of times. Often, this will bleed the air out of the system and restore things to normal. It may or may not work, but since it's free, it's worth a crack.

Almost certainly not. The 2016 Mazda BT-50 was a shared model with Ford (Ranger) but in late 2020, the BT-50 was replaced by an all-new model which was a platform sharing deal with Isuzu (D-Max).

Even if the dual-cab tubs of each version of the BT-50 were dimensionally similar, there would be dozens of detail differences (tie-down points, tailgate width, hinge placement, wheel-arch intrusion etc) that would mean the tub liner from one would not fit into the other. The good news is there are plenty of tub-liners available for the new BT-50. Most seem to be priced from about $300 to $500. And since the previous model BT-50 was a popular vehicle, you could probably sell the old tub liner you have to offset the cost of the new one.

Unless you’ve changed the way you drive, a sudden jump in fuel economy suggests something wrong with either the mechanical or electronic side of things. Have the vehicle scanned and see if it throws any fault codes. From there, you can work out what component is giving you grief and target the problem accurately, rather than mess around for weeks flying blind.

One reason for the sharp increase in fuel consumption could be that the vehicle’s diesel particulate filter (DPF) is full and needs to be regenerated. If you’re not doing long, highway miles, the computer can take matters into its own hands and dump extra fuel into the exhaust system in an attempt to get the exhaust hot enough to regenerate the filter. But you could also be dealing with a faulty fuel-pressure regulator, worn injectors or even something as simple as a blocked air filter.

To put your question into context, an overdrive gear is one where the output shaft of the gearbox spins faster than the input shaft. Or, put another way, a gear in which the car’s propeller-shaft is spinning faster than the engine’s crankshaft. This means the drive wheels can be spun faster (for more road speed) without making the engine rev too hard. Overdrive gearboxes have been common for many years now, typically when five-speed transmissions replaced four-speed units. Those earlier four-speeds generally had a 1:1 ratio on their fourth (top) gear which means the output shaft (and propellor shaft) spun at exactly the same speed as the input shaft (or engine).

Many manufacturers have now, of course, switched to six-speed transmissions and some do, in fact, use that opportunity to fit an overdrive fifth and sixth gear. But in the case of your Mazda, only sixth gear is overdriven (with a ratio of 0.794:1) while fifth gear takes the place of a traditional fourth gear by being 1:1. That gives Mazda the chance to make fourth gear a little lower and tighten up the gaps between all the gears to eliminate any dips in the power delivery. Ultimately, of course, how fast the engine revs at a given road-speed is also down to the differential (or final-drive) ratio fitted, and the diameter of the wheel and tyre package.

There are many things you should look out for before buying a second-hand workhorse like an XL 4x2 ute. Most never have an easy life.

Are there signs of abuse and/or neglect? How was the tray/load bed used, was it a tow vehicle and what does the type of wear and tear does it have?  Was the vehicle off the road at any time, and why? This may indicate a major accident.

Finding answers requires a level of trust and taking the vendor's word at face value, but you can back these up with service records and history. Are they complete, and carried out by a Ford dealer or specific Ford specialist? If the answer to either is no, then that should be a red flag. In our opinion, these vehicles require specialised Ford maintenance.

Furthermore, having 15,000km service intervals is a bit of a stretch for such hard-working vehicles, so skipped ones is especially worrying.

We also recommend taking the Ranger to an independent mechanic for inspection, especially to check the body and suspension underneath for signs of over-loading or off-roading. 

Since the PX generation was launched in 2011 Ford has issued many recalls for the Ranger, and some are serious, including for being a fire hazard over tall grass due to exposed exhaust. The car's service history will indicate whether all recalls have been carried. You can crosscheck them at this website: https://www.productsafety.gov.au/recalls 

Rangers are known to have issues with the automatic transmission, engine control module (ECM) failures (that send the truck into 'limp home mode' in hotter climates or after long-distance driving), air-conditioning, turbos and engine crank bearing. Most of these should be picked up by an experienced mechanical check-up before buying, or sorted out under warranty if you decide on a newer model.

This sort of advice applies to all used trucks. Fundamentally, the T6 Ranger is a solid, safe, durable, comfortable and enjoyable truck to own and drive, and remains the only one (along with the T6-based Mazda BT-50 from 2012 to mid-2020) that is designed, developed and engineered for Australian conditions, so don't be put off.

Just make sure it has history, ask pointed questions about how it's been used and don't be afraid to insist on a mechanic's report.

We hope this helps. Good luck.

Your complaint about the suspension is quite a common one with one-tonne utes, not only with Mazdas, but many other brands as well. It's a message that should be heeded by anyone buying a one-tonne ute with the intention of putting it to work. Before you commit have it assessed by a suspension expert to establish if it really is up to the task you have in mind, or does it need upgrading. Your complaint about the company not reacting to your problem is not uncommon either, and it's not just from one company. There seems to be an industry wide reluctance to properly deal with customer concerns.

The Amarok is rated to tow 3000 kg, which would make it marginal for your needs given that you want to tow around three tonnes. The Ranger and BT-50 are rated at 3500 kg, which would make them more suitable for you. The Ranger and the BT-50 are the same vehicle, it's only the features that separate them. For me, of those you list the Mazda is the best value-for-money.

There have been reports of problems with the BT-50 auto, rough shifting etc., which could be enough to put you off buying one.