Toyota Corolla Gearbox & Transmission Problems

Ford changed from the LW model to the LZ in 2015. The LW had a dual-clutch automatic, which was very problematic and should be avoided; the later LZ had a regular automatic transmission and has none of the problems that beset the LW. In short the LZ is worth buying, and can be compared to the Mazda3 and Toyota Corolla for reliability.

Toyota Corollas are sold with both automatic and manual transmissions.

Though they were originally rear-drive, Aussie Corollas have been driven by the front-wheels since the era of stonewash and perms (that is the 1980s, kids). We also had a Corolla-based four-wheel drive in the early '90s badged Tercel, though it didn't last long. Overseas, the Corolla has had all-wheel drive and four-wheel drive variants, some even featuring turbochargers. For Australia, the last rear-drive Corolla was the KE70-series, though the early 1980s rear-drive Sprinter was also based off a Corolla platform.

I couldn’t recommend the Cruze; there are too many problems with its auto transmission, as we have reported here at CarsGuide. Look at the Mazda2 or Mazda3, Toyota Yaris or Corolla, which are generally trouble free.

It's far better to have more ratios, since it keeps the car's engine operating at maximum efficiency for more of the time. Top-end car companies are now going for eight speeders, which are brilliant with diesel engines. But Japanese companies are turning to constantly variable transmissions, which don't have cogs - just adjustable belts that stop at preset ratios - and these are often disruptive and the operating software is poorly tweaked.

You have to be familiar with your engine's torque curve to takeoff smoothly in a manual, particularly a four-cylinder. It could well be that at the revs you are using at takeoff coincides with a flat spot in the torque curve, It could be the calibration of the throttle system, but it's more likely a case of getting used to it.

If it has got progressively worse over time it could be that the clutch is worn and needs to be replaced. If it hasn't, and it appears to be a characteristic of the car then perhaps a change of technique is required. It might be that you simply need to raise the revs a little when using the clutch and make sure you feel the point of engagement so that you've got enough revs on board at the critical moment the clutch takes up.

It could be related to the transmission calibration, but it's not possible to say for sure without driving it. Take it back to your dealer and take him for a drive so you can demonstrate the problem. That way he might be able to fix it.

The coolant change period does seem too long, the initial change is at eight years, which would seem way too long. I would be looking to change the coolant every couple of years, that's 40,000 to 50,000 km. As for the automatic transmission, carmakers now employ a fill-for-life strategy, which means they fill the trannie in production and never touch it again. My view is that it's a flawed approach, particularly if you plan to keep your car for a long time, as you say you are. I would have the fluid changed every 50,000 km and have the transmission serviced every 100,000 km.

It's still under warranty so you should persist with your dealer and have him demonstrate, perhaps by driving another car with the same drivetrain, that yours is normal. You could also have a trusted mechanic drive it for you and give you an opinion on it.