Volkswagen Tiguan Engine Problems

I find it hard to believe that 98-octane fuel is selling for less than 95, but if it is you can certainly use it in your Tiguan.

The petrol engine has a chain, the diesel a belt.

It won’t have jammed as such; it’s got an electronic throttle. It’s more likely to be an electronic issue, perhaps at the pedal. If you can, have it checked by a mechanic experienced in VWs, or perhaps an independent engineer.

All model years 2008-2013 appear to be affected.

We understand a new tensioner was fitted from 2012.

All of the cars you name meet your criteria of size, economy, performance and handling.

You could also add the Mazda3 and 6 to the list.

Of all of those I would nominate the Camry as the great all-rounder.

The diesel engine has a belt, but the petrol engine has a chain.

I am not given to defending car companies or dealers, but your car is out of warranty, you have not been loyal on servicing regardless of the reason and at least they are offering some sort of contribution to the cost of the parts.

Three weeks have passed since your car was towed to the dealership, which is more than enough time for VW to get back to you with a resolution. The resolution must come from VW via the dealer, so keep the pressure on at dealer level, while at the same time stay in contact with VW. If the response isn't to your liking when you get it you'll have to attempt to negotiate a resolution that is more to your liking. You could consult the Consumer Affairs people in Victoria, but I doubt they would be of any help. You could also seek advice from a solicitor, but again I doubt that you would get any satisfaction there. The best course of action is to negotiate with VW and stare them down.

What's happening is that the car's computer is detecting a problem and putting it into limp home mode. The idea is that you are then able to drive on at a reduced speed to get it to a dealer for repairs. What's not happening is that the dealer is not identifying a problem when they get to see the car and check it on their diagnostic equipment. It's difficult to find the cause of a problem when it is not evident when the mechanic is doing the check. There is likely to be a problem with a sensor or a wiring connection issue. The only way to find the problem when the diagnostic gear isn't telling what is causing it is to do a thorough manual check. I would be taking the car back to the dealer and telling them that you won't be taking it back until the car is fixed.

Before they fitted the parts, particularly when they're expensive ones like the diff, they should have sought your approval to proceed. If they have, and you have agreed to fit the parts, you are liable to pay for them, even though they might not have fixed the problem. If they haven't got your permission to go ahead then you have grounds for refusing to pay for the parts. If they refuse to spend any more time on your car, or can't resolve the problem, you're really left with no alternative but to seek another repairer who would seek to solve it.