

Year | Price From | Price To |
---|---|---|
2025 | $48,886 | $80,656 |
2024 | $45,210 | $64,790 |
2023 | $41,580 | $61,160 |
2022 | $38,280 | $59,730 |
2021 | $30,800 | $51,920 |
2020 | $28,160 | $47,630 |
2019 | $23,980 | $48,180 |
2018 | $21,670 | $43,450 |
2017 | $20,570 | $41,030 |
2016 | $19,360 | $39,380 |
2015 | $15,400 | $32,120 |
2014 | $12,980 | $29,370 |
2013 | $11,000 | $23,430 |
2012 | $10,450 | $21,670 |
2011 | $10,450 | $20,130 |
2010 | $9,680 | $21,670 |
2009 | $9,680 | $21,120 |
2008 | $9,130 | $20,680 |
2007 | $8,250 | $20,130 |
2006 | $7,150 | $14,740 |
2005 | $4,400 | $14,190 |
2004 | $4,180 | $11,330 |
2003 | $4,180 | $11,330 |
2002 | $4,180 | $11,880 |
2001 | $4,180 | $11,880 |
2000 | $3,850 | $11,880 |
1999 | $3,850 | $9,790 |
1998 | $3,300 | $9,790 |
1997 | $3,300 | $9,240 |
1996 | $3,300 | $9,240 |
1995 | $3,300 | $9,240 |
1994 | $3,300 | $9,240 |
1993 | $3,300 | $9,240 |
1992 | $3,300 | $9,240 |
1991 | $2,970 | $9,240 |
1990 | $2,970 | $9,240 |
1989 | $2,640 | $9,240 |
1988 | $2,640 | $6,490 |
1987 | $2,640 | $6,490 |
1986 | $2,640 | $6,490 |
1985 | $2,640 | $6,490 |
1984 | $2,640 | $6,490 |
1983 | $2,640 | $6,490 |
1982 | $2,640 | $4,070 |
1981 | $2,640 | $4,070 |
1980 | N/A | N/A |
1979 | N/A | N/A |
1978 | N/A | N/A |
1977 | N/A | N/A |
1976 | N/A | N/A |
1975 | N/A | N/A |
1974 | N/A | N/A |
1973 | N/A | N/A |
1972 | N/A | N/A |
1971 | N/A | N/A |
1970 | N/A | N/A |
Toyota HiAce FAQs
Check out real-world situations relating to the Toyota HiAce here, particularly what our experts have to say about them.
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I am looking for a used van... do you have any recommendations?
Rather than concentrate on a particular brand, the best advice is to find a vehicle with a full service history and signs that it has lived an easy life. Too often, commercial vehicles like vans are bought by their first owner and used and abused. They’re nearly always purchased with a job in mind, and that job can often wreck them or at least shorten their lives.
Sometimes, the down-time associated with proper servicing means that maintenance is skipped, other times the sheer weight of the cargo being carried puts a lot of strain on mechanical components. A van that has been used by, say, a pool chemical company might have been exposed to highly corrosive chemicals every day of its life and could be hiding lots of rust. Even a florist’s van might have every nook and cranny filled with potting mix, waiting to become damp and start the rusting process.
Another good idea is to buy a van that has already been converted to a camper. This conversion is not an inexpensive process, so letting the previous owner spend the money is a terrific concept. Keep an eye on the classifieds for a van that has done a tour of duty with a grey nomad or van-lifer, and is now up for sale as the owner moves on to something new.
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Why has my Toyota HiAce van's gearbox failed?
This does sound like an odd one, to be honest. It’s certainly possible to wear out a clutch in a very short space of time if you drive the car badly, but I’m trying to work out how a gearbox could fail at such a short mileage without there having been something wrong with it from the start. I’d also love to know why Toyota thinks the problem does not constitute a valid warranty claim.
Has the vehicle been used to tow exceptionally heavy loads? Are there any other extraordinary circumstances that makes Toyota think that the issue is a driver-abuse or neglect scenario?
I’d start by by-passing your dealership and contacting Toyota Australia’s customer service division. It might also be useful to have the damaged gearbox independently inspected by a specialist who might be able to pin-point the cause of the wear and help determine what happens next. If it can be shown that a component was faulty or simply failed too early, then I’d say you have a good case to pursue a warranty claim.
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Why does my 2007 Toyota Hiace make a whistling noise?
I’ll take a stab in the dark here and suggest that your van is a turbo-diesel (there was a petrol version offered as well, but the diesel was much more popular). If that’s the case, you could be dealing with a turbocharger that’s showing wear. Specifically, this is likely to be in the turbo’s bearing which will become noisy (and potentially emit a whistling noise) as the bearing starts to degrade. Turbochargers often spin at speeds of up to 250,000rpm, so the bearing really has its work cut out.
The clue to all this is that the vehicle starts whistling when you press the throttle; that is, when you place a load on the engine and ask the turbocharger to start providing boost. That’s when the worn bearing becomes loaded (and noisy). But you could also be looking at something much simpler such as an exhaust that has collapsed internally and is offering a whistling soundtrack, or even a loose piece of intake plumbing that is also allowing the air passing over it to whistle. Perhaps there’s something in the gearbox that is making a high-pitched noise as well. You really need to have the vehicle looked at by somebody who knows their HiAces and take it from there.
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